Re: Aklimatyzacja w górach wysokich - Everest 2012

zaj Napisał(a):
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> Brawo Krzys!
> Trzeba bedzie głębiej poszperać o tym. Wstępny
> research nie dał mi odpowiedzi na pytanie czy
> taktyka odniosła sukces w górach najwyższych.


"Yes to climbing teams and self-sufficiency, no to oxygen and fixed lines
Realizing that these numerous trips up and down between base camp and the altitude camps were traumatizing, some mountaineers tried to imagine these ascents done differently. In the 90s, a French guide, Jean-Pierre Bernard, proposed a method by stages, having everyone climb at the same rhythm, without going back down to base camp, and he tested it successfully on Kun in India, on Denali and on Khan Tengri. In 1990, he reached 7050 m on Shishapangma with his clients on the twentieth day of
the ascent... and reached the summit two days later.
Paulo Grobel, a specialist in the forgotten summits of Nepal and Northern India*, was inspired by the method by stages, renamed “steady progression.” Paulo explains the experience. First scene:
Ninchin Kangsa, a 7000 m peak near Lhassa. “Persistent bad weather forced us to set up many more altitude camps during the rare breaks of good weather. We were very surprised that we all arrived at the summit on the first day of good weather!” Then it was time for Shishapangma. “On Shisha, the idea was to use skis, but without high-altitude porters, so therefore, no oxygen or fixed lines. When we left base camp with our houses on our backs, we said goodbye to our cook for the last time and planned to meet
him 15 days later. He burst out laughing, shook our hands and thundered, ”No problem, see you tomorrow!” Like many others, he didn’t for a second believe in our progression technique.
We met him 16 days later, with everyone summiting.”