Siem okazało ze Yuji machnął 8c onsightem ale wczesniej wielokrotnie asekurując na tej drodze (!!??). Ponizej jego wyjasnienia z forum 8a.nu:
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The 8c onsight (world record) by Yuji Hirayama, White Zombie in Baltzola - Spain, has been questioned. Yuji has sent us his comments where he states that he belayed his friend but looked down. The video of the climb also shows that he began with one pre-clipped carabine and plenty of tick-marks at the crux.
We do want to underline that we feel that these procedures are within the border of what is normally called as an onsight ascent by the community nowadays.
It is not a violation to belay somewone and later try the same route onsight as long as you don't systematically do it in order to collect beta. Practice and Ethics the climbing communityOne should also bear in mind that the community defintion of onsight has been changed over the last years. Ten years ago you had to place your own carabiners to claim an onsight!
"Hi Jens,
I heard about this problem and I feel that I should explain something now. At first You should look at what I have done in the past. Big wall on sight, 8b+ on sight Competition?
I always take serious attempt. Some challenge that I haven’t done and some challenge that I have succeed. You can think that what I am saying by the time. After that. It is only that you trust me or not. Let’s think about it?
I belayed him but only few times when he wanted to try the moves. And I didn’t see him to climb. There is a way to belay eaven without seeing the climber.
Anyway, what you trust, it is only inside of you.
All the best,
Yuji"
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No i jak. Przekonał was Yuji czy nie??