mwojtyna Napisał(a):
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> Nieoczywisty dla nas odcinek to
> wyjście na grań od schroniska Schonbiel, a w
> zasadzie jeden odcinek: "wzniesienie Satelli =>
> początek śnieżnej grani". Widzę, jednak, że
> trzeba będzie skonsultować te drogę już w
> samym Zermatt lub Schonbielhutte i zrobić dobry
> rekonesans.
Miałem to właśnie napisać, że jeśli w miarę dobrze komunikujecie się po angielsku czy niemiecku to najlepiej zapytać w Zermatt lub (chyba lepiej) samym schronie. Poniżej cytuję fragment opisu z przewodnika:
"From the Schonbiel Hut descend the path SW to the Schonbiel Glacier. Descend the dry glacier and cross the main Zmutt Glacier SE at c2S40m to the base of the lower Zmutt Ridge. Go ESE up a wide couloir of scree and snow on the L of the Sattelti rock spur. At c2900m go out R and thfough a rock band, and cross the crest of the Sattelti just S of Pt 2974m (2-2.5 hrs possible bivouac site).
Go S and descend slightly to reach the E edge of the Tiefmatten Glacier. Go up the glacier past a prominent ridge (Pt 2998m). Go L up the snowy bay beyond, keeping dose to the ridge and, at the top, go R across a secondary rib and a watercourse, then go up scree and short walls to a waterworn gully. Climb this to a huge scree terrace. Go back L to the watercourse and follow its bed or L edge to scree slopes which lead to the lower end of the Zmutt Ridge. Climb up the crest to Pt 3627m (2hr).
Follow the crest on snow, then rock to the first of a series of teeth starting at Pt 3895m. Go over the first tooth. Either turn the second and subsequent teeth by loose ledges on their R side or go over them turning the last teeth on the L. By either route gain a notch behind the teeth. Now climb pale rocks on the crest or slabs slightly to the L for several pitches (III+, some pegs, very delicate if icy) to Pt 4158m (2-3hr).
Here the ridge line disappears behind the Zmutt Nose. Cross a level section, then go up a short icy fissure to a vertical step. Go L several m along an exposed ledge and come back R over a block to regain the arete under another vertical step. Now follow an easy ledge R for 25m until it ts possible to climb straight up for several pitches on slabby rock to a sloping terrace. This is the Carrel Gallery by whtch Carrel traversed from the Italian Ridge. Instead of traversing back L on the gallery (which can be delicate), it is better to contmue up on slabs, trending L to a thin couloir of reddish rock near the arete. Climb the coutoir to regain the crest above the Zmutt Nose. Now follow the artte, turning a final step on the L to reach the Itaiian summit (2-3hr)."
No to powodzenia!