Nie chce mi sie tego tlumaczyc znalazlem to w Climbing Magazine. Jest to dosc ciekawe i pewnie rozpeta goraca dyskusje. Jest to tez dobra okazja aby pocwiczyc jezyk angielski.

Making the grade
Seems like every day now a new 5.15 is put up, or claimed, somewhere in the world. Maybe I am getting old, but I was taught that routes were assigned a grade based on the climb’s most difficult move. I have climbed many 5.10s — some have been one-move wonders and some have been incredibly sustained, however, they are still 5.10. If one follows the logic of this new grading system, that was used on Realization (by everyone but Sharma) and many new routes or extensions, then if I add 30 or 40 feet of 5.9 to an existing sustained 5.10 route then I just climbed a 5.11, right?
If you ask some of the new hard men and women, or the magazines for that matter, they will tell you that if you combine a 5.14c and a 5.14b then you have a 5.15. Wrong. You have an incredibly hard and sustained 5.14c. I love to hear reports of climbers climbing routes that were once unclimbable, but keep it realistic when spraying grades.
— Mark Johnson
Vail, CO

Editor’s Note: Although the original “single hardest move” concept has never been officially canned, it is quite assuredly not practiced. Cumulative difficulty is real — doing one pull-up doesn’t mean you can do 10. Famous old-school Yosemite 5.10s such as Twilight Zone have no single moves harder than about 5.8. Persistent, one of the first 5.11s at the Gunks, climbs very much like 30 feet of 5.9 moves tacked on to a 5.10 start. Face it, Mark, you’ve been climbing 5.11 for years.