BETON Napisał(a):
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> Faktycznie- nie zauważyłem tego pierwszego
> przelota. Może powodem jest to, że jest tuż nad
> ziemia :)
Może jest istotny powód, dla którego ten przelot jest tuż nad ziemią?
"Normal 'run for it' technique: the belayer sees the climber fall and runs for it. Now if the belayer is standing on a flat surface and is directly beneath the crucial first runner, the distance they travel will not equal the amount of rope being pulled through. Now dig out you're old mathematics books, turn to Pythagoras's Theorem… ready?
Imagine our leader's first runner is 10m above the belayer's initial position (height), and the belayer manages an heroic sprint of 5m (distance) before the rope goes tight (or impact occurs), the rope pulled through = (Square Root of (height squared + distance squared)) - height . In our example, despite a 5m sprint, our belayer would only manage to pull though just over 1m of slack, not very impressive.
(...)
So here is the solution: the ground level runner. By placing a very low runner (optimally at waist height), far more slack can be pulled in when the belayer runs."
Cytat z Tricks For Advanced Belaying by Adrian Berry
[
www.planetfear.com]
Mateusz Łoskot
"Partycypacja w całym tym procesie jest formą tortury"
--Szalony
