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Beforehand I have studied the weather forecast intensively. I knew this would be an important matter of fact. Tenji and I were best acclimatized. We had already spent one night at South Col at almost 8000 meters. Meteotest sent me a positive forecast for May 17 and 18. For the 19th they forecasted stronger winds and from May 20 on I would get critical. Then there was the other big problem.
The many people. For us the number of alpinists, who would be on route at the same time with us represented a potential danger. We could not wait up there. We would suffer frostbites very quickly. But we could not change this matter of fact to be on route with the whole crowd of alpinists. The solution was very simple. Since the fix ropes had not been fixed so far, the commercial expeditions could not start. The so called fixing team with 10 Sherpas had planned to leave on May 18 to install the fix ropes to the summit. This was a lucky situation for us. And further it would be the warmest day of the forecast. We decided to summit with them.
Dla Simone Moro (przy jego planie dubletu na Evereście i Lhotse) byłoby to pewnie najlepsze rozwiązanie.
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