łojant Napisał(a):
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> VI.6 na Jorassach - nieźle !
MacIntyre - Colton (Colton/MacIntyre, 1976, VI 6, A1, 90°, 1150m). The original name was “Rollerwand”. The most popular, and probably still most logical ice route of the wall, and a daring, well-executed exploit for the FA party, it's now repeated with some regularity (in winter). The central section is technically severe, and very difficult to protect. The most popular line today joins the right hand goulotte of "Alexis" between the middle and upper icefield, then ends the route (via the last bit of the Japanese route) at the little 4143m breach between the Walker and Whymper summit. This line is easier and more often in conditions, but the original line (going straight up the top of the Walker spur over mixed terrain, is more elegant and satisfying (and harder). In 2008 the route was soloed by Ueli Steck in a record 2h15m - but the real record was that Ueli managed to descend an incredibily snow normal route in time to be in Chamonix for dinner!
[
www.summitpost.org]
:)
Bogusław Kowalski
Instruktor Alpinizmu PZA [
pza.org.pl]