Posłużę się przykładami z zagranicy:
Jeff Mercier: "To my mind using this technique puts a cap on the sport- It is clear that the physical abilities of the world’s best means that they can cross a 50m horizontal roof without too many attempts (the multiple repeats of Ironman show this). So what will happen when the holes are stretched out to the absolute maximum allowable by doing Fig 4s? The World Cup climbers will come along with their newly modified axes that are an extra 15cm longer…and then what???
Secondly, the fun side of climbing is completely removed. Dry Toolers are climbers. Because of that they all recognise the importance of footwork and the joy of working out a sequence of body moves that will finally allow him to climb their project. I still remember the Kanderstegg 2011 competition, the first section was 90 degree, 95 degree maximum; the Swiss machines were doing Fig 4 sequences from the very first move!! It is very fast but where is the pleasure in just repeating X times the exact same movement?" (http://jeffmercier.blogspot.com/p/world-wide-dry.html)
Gayetan Raymond: "Nevertheless, some people have always advocated an ethical style without Yaniro. Those people are to name a few: Jeff Mercier, Will Gadd and recently myself. It is in France that this style is the most developed, now called « French style » or D.T.S. (Dry-Tooling Style, named from the famous French annual contest which prohibits Yaniros).
There are several reasons why we do not do Yaniros:
– The use of feet on the rock is much more interesting, it looks like rock-climbing when it needs to find the right foot. So there is a technical dimension in addition, much less annoying than to chain Yaniros after Yaniros on during 20m roof.
– It allows long reaches with good holds.
– In the mountains nobody does Yaniros, since dry-tooling is considered only as a training activity, therefore doing this move in the mountains doesn’t make sens.
– Because we love the difficulty, the « French style » really makes dry-tooling more difficult by the need to keep feet in the roof and carried greater weight in the hands during movement (we get tired faster)." (https://gaetanraymond.wordpress.com/2016/02/06/dry-tooling-figure-4-yaniro/)
Will Mayo: "I started to sport mixed climb, without figure 4s. It requires a foundation of traditional mixed climbing: knowing the tool, how to use it, how it will respond. Also, it requires sport climbing abilities: body position, primarily; DTS is more complex than simply a mad sequence of figure 4s and 9s as we see in the Ice Climbing World Cup, which, of course, is in and of itself a phenomenal display of athleticism; but, it is more of a deviation from traditional climbing. As such, it seems to me that DTS is a more effective manner to utilize the sport mixed game as training for traditional and alpine climbing, where the use of figure 4s seems unlikely and somewhat absurd." (http://www.willmayo.us/french-dry-tooling-style-dts/)
te teksty w większości przypadków zostały napisane jakiś czas temu i często odwołują się do tego, że na zawodach 4/9 są podstawową techniką przemieszczania się. To także się już zmienia. Primo: czas na pokonanie dróg coraz mocniej zostaje ograniczony, a 4/9 trwają dlużej niż "normalne" wspinanie i ludzie często z nich rezygnują. Secundo: drogi zaczęto kręcić na gorszych chwytach, często są to techniczne pasaże po odciągach, na których zapięcie 4/9 oznaczaloby ulotnienie się z chwytu w tempie ekstremalnym.
Dorzuciłabym swoją odpowiedź, ale w tym momencie nie mam siły pisać, sorry ;-) (poza tym byłoby to w sumie powtórzeniem powyższych wypowiedzi)
Pozdrawiam,
Ola
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