Poniżej moja wymiana maili z Jessicą Meiris, która przeszła solo Nosa na Elcapie. Pewnie się przyda :)
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From: Jessica Meiris [mailto:jes.meiris@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2014 1:02 AM
To: Maciej Tertelis
Subject: Re: Congratulations!
Hi!
I’m sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Here are the answers to your questions!
1. Right, no chest harness. Because the rope weight is held by the backpack, there’s no need for one- I just clip the GriGri into my belay loop upside down so the brake side is oriented on top. It rides that way on its own.
2. Just a locking carabiner.
3. I use overhand knots for backups, with two exceptions: I use a figure 8 at the middle mark so I know that when I hit the middle, and again about 30 feet from the end. I don’t use any particular system- I tie the knots as a backup to my jumars while ascending, every 30-50 feet, and clip them to a locker on my belay loop. I try to keep the loops of rope even, and the knots a little loose so I can untie the knots with one hand if necessary. Then when I get to the anchor and I’m ready to re-stack the rope into my backpack, the knots are already in the rope- I simply unclip them from my belay loop and stack them into the pack.
4. Yes, I used a single 70m 9.4mm. I brought along a 60m 6mm tag line in case I needed to bail. Next time, I’ll probably skip bringing the tag line, and commit to not bailing!
5. Exactly. If it were really long, I might bust out a jumar since the GriGri can take a lot of energy to ascend with. I also carry a Petzl Tibloc (mini ascender) for this purpose. It’s such a light and versatile piece of gear.
6. I used a GriGri2 only because I had a 9.4mm rope and the old GriGri was not catching on the 9.4 and I thought it was sketchy. I actually prefer the old GriGri, but wouldn’t use it soloing unless you have a 10mm rope.
The Nose- Yes you should do it! Time is an issue I know, but it will be worth it. Best of luck!!
~Jes
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On Mon, Jun 23, 2014 at 4:01 PM, Maciej Tertelis <mtertelis@apollorida.pl> wrote:
Dear Jess,
Thank you so much for a quick response. Being so kindly invited, let me ask you some more questions :).
1. Does it mean you climb without chest harness? Is the rope just being pulled out manually from the pack (bit by bit), and go directly to the grigri of you place it through some binner clipped to the chest harness or a sling?
2. Do you attach the grigri to your belay loop with a piece of rope (doubling the loop etc.) or with a carabiner?
3. Backup knots - you use figure eight knots? Do you have any specific system that computes a number of these knots (responding to difficulties throughout the pitch etc.)?
4. I understand you climb with a single rope... What length? And with accessory cord to enable longer rappels if needed?
5. After taking a whipper, you just rest and climb up to the last piece of protection like top roping with grigri and then continue leading?
6. Would you reccomend to use grigri2 or the original device (which I have) should work as well?
I will be in crags tomorrow so will try to use your system.
The Nose.... Would be great some day to come to us and do it in a team in a day (hopefully), and then again free, my dreams do not go much further :). My problem is the lack of time... When i used to teach climbing (for almost 10 years) for polish mount assoc i did not use to have much time for private climbing or was too tired to still want to climb for myself; since 1996 i shifted to commercial real estate and right now i am trying to spend as much time on training as possible ... and to finish a few old climbing projects (new routes) in our granite Tatras... Maybe in 2-3 years there is an opportunity for me to visit ElCapitan...
Thank you again for your time :)
Maciej
Wysłane z iPhone'a
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Dnia 23 cze 2014 o godz. 19:34 Jessica Meiris <jes.meiris@gmail.com> napisał(a):
> Thanks! I use a GriGri as well, but not modified. I stack my rope in a
> backpack with backup knots, and clip the GriGri upside down into my
> belay loop so the brake side is oriented upwards. This keeps the rope
> running smoothly through the device and down to my anchor. I've fallen
> on this system three times, and it's always caught me before coming
> tight onto a backup knot.
>
> I should also note that sometimes on longer pitches the weight of the
> rope will pull it through the GriGri faster than I am climbing,
> leaving a ton of extra slack in the system. To manage this, I will
> clove hitch the rope to a bolt or solid piece of gear which then holds
> the rope weight. It means that piece of gear will take the force of a
> fall before my anchor does, but to me that's better than 30 feet of
> extra slack!
>
> Hope this helps. Happy to answer more questions. Will you go for the
> Nose?? It was such fun day, I highly recommend it!
>
> ~Jes
>
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>> On 6/23/14, Maciej Tertelis <mtertelis@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Dear Jes!
>> Congratulations on your Nose accent.
>> Would you please share with me briefly the belay system you used on the
>> climb? Modified grigri?
>> Quite a few years ago I bought a Silent Partner and you would not believe,
>> after few climbs it got damaged - the drum stopped to block... fortunately
>> I found it testing the device still on the ground, just before the climb...
>> Also contacted Hans Florine, he admitted he used Grigri...
>> Thanks!
>> Regards from Warsaw, Poland :)
>> Maciej
>>