Re: Najtrudniejsze

Less-R Napisał(a):
-------------------------------------------------------
> "Przez lata na liście najtrudniejszych dróg
> pojawiała się Chilam Balam 9b+ autorstwa
> Bernabé Fernándeza (2003). Niestety przejście
> Hiszpana jest już oficjalnie zakwestionowane.
> Autor nie wykazał chęci poparcia swojego
> przejścia żadnymi dowodami."
>
> Mieliśmy chyba podobny przypadek u nas -
> 'Prestiżowa Robota' Łysego. Czy naprawdę autor
> przejścia musi popierać swoje przejścia
> jakimikolwiek dowodami. Może ma to po prostu w
> dupie, bo wspina się nie dla okładki 'Climbinga'
> tylko dla siebie. Z Fredkiem też sprawa ma się
> chyba podobnie.


Z Fredkiem jest być może podobnie, artykuł w Climbingu może na to wskazywać, ale z Bernabe już nie do końca, bardzo mądrze pisze o tym Huber:

When I see the news, then “Jumbo Love” is considered to be the most
difficult sportclimb today. And well, this assumption is reasonable! We know
the skills of Sharma, which he demonstrated with ascents of “Realisation”,
“La Rambla”, “Es Pontas”, “Golpe del Estado”, “Neanderthal”, ….. The funny
thing is that, when I look through all the magazines, above “Jumbo Love” are
still registered the routes “Chilam Balam” and “Akira”!??!?! As if the
performance of Sharma would be kindergaden-like!!! Would only have to put
into consideration, how long was the road for Chris Sharma to get into
position to climb a route like “Jumbo Love”. And we have to put into
consideration how strong Sharma is compared to others!!! Through the
demonstration of his skills through countless ascents he created his
credibility, which is so necessary in the climbing community as we don´t
want to have judges approving ascents! And Chris Sharma well deserves this
credibility. He worked hard in order to get it! In contrast, others are not
willing to be open and transparent enough so that we could believe them. As
we do not have referees and judges, climbing has to come along with
transparency and credibility. To trust blindly the correctness of the human
being is stupid – we should have learned this from history. Climbing is a
sport with no judges, no referees, no independent body governing who did
what and how. Climbing works on the basis of trust and credibility.

Administrator forum wspinanie.pl
Wojciech Słowakiewicz