Markus pisze tak:
"Yesterday I climbed the old project of ANDI HOFMANN right of BURN 4 U. It was bolted 1993 or so and I have worked it 2003 a bit, 2004 all the autumn and this year a bit in the spring and now after Ceuse for minimum 10 days. Its definetly my hardest route I have ever done, and for sure one of the best lines here in Frankenjura too. Its perfect black and grey rock. I think also that this route might be harder than Action. All in all spent nearly the same number of days on both but the new one is more crimpy and more my favorite style of climbing.
The start is the same start like Burn 4 U (around 10 moves) 7a as a route or so. Then you have to climb the hardest part of the route: a 6 move 8B bloc. Really hard on bad 2 finger-pockets, long moves and bad footholds (the route is 35 degree steep). It's a bit like Action Directe, your fingers need time to adapt to the strains. The last of these 6 moves is the hardest. Hard because you need to take this edge with a thumb pinch very precisely. I fell on this move around 10 times. After this 8B boulder you have to climb without any rest an 8b route (technical on crimps)for 15 more moves.
Its bit early to have find the right name for it, I hate really to give names to hard routes specially if the route is a "Masterpiece" and really means a lot to me. The feeling yesterday was the same like after I have done Action and I need a bit time till I have really understand "I have done it".
Afterwards I have meet Iker Pou (Iker is here since three weeks) for some beers and celebrate a bit. I'm really fortunate that I have done it.
Cheers,
Markus"
za: [
www.moonclimbing.com]
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Jestem wspinaczem kompletnym ,kocham poboulderzyć , lubie pivo i pieszcze damskie sutki
Zmieniany 1 raz(y). Ostatnia zmiana 2006-10-06 16:30 przez creative invalid.