Hi hi, nikt się nie wychylił...
Przeczytaj do końca tekst (po angielsku niestety) z linka do bloga Willa Gadda jaki zapodałem wyżej :
"The best we can do is to try and understand our gear as best we can, and then use what's appropriate for the situation at hand. Even then we're likely to get it "wrong" at least some of the time, so having a good margin for error is perhaps the most important part of the climbing process. In climbing we're always trying to balance multiple different factors; speed vs. safety, speed to get to safety, going light to go fast, bringing enough gear to stay alive if the fast idea doesn't work, not taking so much gear that progress stops in a dangerous place, backing up gear in case we fall vs. placing so much gear that we will fall, etc. Perhaps those of us involved in the "climbing education" business are placing too much emphasis on the "right way" and not enough on "think it through."
Wpinanie dwóch żył na starcie wynika - jak sądzę - z obawy o ewentualne zerwanie liny w przypadku odpadnięcia na jednej żyle na starcie (przy dużym WO). Czy jest to bardziej prawdopodobne niż szarpnięcie siłą >12kN po wpięciu dwóch żył?
Zobacz cytat powyżej.
Pozdrawiam!
Gruby
Zmieniany 2 raz(y). Ostatnia zmiana 2010-02-14 00:55 przez grubyilysy.